A Postcard from Greece [4]

Back in May, I was extolling the virtues of Nionio’s Taverna in Paxos. Well, I’ve found another one that’s pretty bloody good too!

In the village of Kioni on Ithaca there are 5 tavernas, one mini market and quite a lot of yachts and their attendant yachties. They’re a strange bunch, but some of them are quite sociable – apart from the snobs of course! You can tell who they are because they promenade up and down the waterfront in their boat shoes (and what exactly is the point of fucking up perfectly good casual shoes by running bits of string around them?) with their sweaters draped across their shoulders. Pissy poncey coloured sweaters of course!

We talked to a few – we’re not proud – and once they know we are staying here and have been here for a while, they ask which is the best restaurant in town? This is how it works:-

The one at the end by the yatchs is OK but it catches all the wind, the service is indifferent and it’s a bit pricey. We ate there once in 14 days.

Next is the one that all the flotillas seem to go to. Tables for 20 are the norm. I suspect that it is run by the brother or cousin of the guy running the flotilla! There are rumours that they buy in preprepared food to cope with the volume. I don’t know if it’s true, but the moussaka certainly tasted and looked like it!

At the furthest end of the waterfront there was a man spit roasting a pig. Every night. Very visually appealing, but the minute it comes off the spit it’s gone! We had a couple of passable steaks in there one night. It was a bit pricey and we didn’t bother going back. That leaves the two in the middle.

One always seemed empty. Someone told he had never had a decent meal in there, but we ate there one night and were quite satisfied. It had probably the cheapest wine on the block which was perfectly drinkable.

Mythos Taverna was the one for us. We ate there seven times. His meatballs are to kill for. Ditto his fried cheese. Light and delicate. They do a lemon casseroled chicken which melts in your mouth and a Greek chicken pie that is very solidly chicken. The veal in a brandy and orange sauce is fantastic. The pork steak fills your plate and is expertly grilled over charcoal. And the house wine to wash it down with? The best in town – especially the rose. I could rave about the place all week, it’s that good. Last night the bill with a litre of wine was €28.

So why isn’t he packed out? Beats me. All the people who ask us – and there have been quite a few – eat in the expensive one nearest to the boats. I guess that’s yatchies for you. Style over content!

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